The gentle 7:00 am gong I hear need not sound out more than once to get me off the thin mattress and out from under the three woolen blankets I slept with. Don’t get me wrong. My night of rest at one of Yosemite’s High Sierra Camps could not have been better. Even now, the lingering heat from the woodstove offers an easy transition from cozy cot to warmed mountain air in this roomy, canvas-covered cabin in Yosemite’s high country.
I’m out of bed because that gong signals that the pre-breakfast “warmup” has begun. So, I do not delay. I stretch out the morning “cobwebs” that have formed internally overnight and walk to the meal tent and grab a cup of hot chocolate, blended with a smidge of coffee (to bring to attention any brain cells that desire to dilly-dally despite the full day of activities ahead!).
With my hot chocolate/coffee in hand, I reflect back on the previous day of hiking that brought me and others to this isolated camp in Yosemite‘s wilderness. Although portions of the trail, especially those that pass by Yosemite’s five High Sierra Camps, must be shared with an increasing number of fellow hikers, overall, Yosemite’s isolated outback is absent of the populated throngs seen in Yosemite Valley.
This allows greater focus on all that the Yosemite wilderness has to offer. Pleasing scenes of shady forests of Lodgepole and Jeffrey pines quietly give way to grassy glens. Meandering creeks peacefully guide hikers to wide-open meadows bounded by bold granite peaks. Clean mountain air represented by vibrant blue skies makes breathing a visual and physical experience. Keeping an eye on the trail almost becomes a nuisance since I do not want to miss any of the grandeur of the surrounding landscape.
Not only do I reflect on the previous day’s hiking joys, but I also anticipate what lies ahead for the day. I review my topographic map and make notes of creek crossings to ensure my water supply will remain adequate. I also examine the different elevation changes to prepare mentally for the shift in energy that will be required when the treading gets steep.
Time passes quickly and soon the 7:30 am breakfast gong pulls me out of my “thinkingness.” Just hearing the bell activates a cascade of secretions from my salivary glands. Internally, chemical reactions start in my brain and alert my stomach for the scrumptious resources about to be delivered. I gather with fellow hikers in the meal tent and welcome the serving of piping hot pancakes. I adorn them with chocolate chips and watch them melt lazily on their rounded resting place. Not wanting to forsake this chocolatey theme prematurely, I smother a steamy bowl of oatmeal with almonds, and then, you guessed it, I add chocolate chips.
The chef has chosen Mexican omelets for the egg menu. I view the protein as an important piece of nourishment for the eight or so miles of hiking planned for today. I grab an apple to ensure the meal has some semblance of a health benefit. Another cup of coffee-infused hot chocolate acts as my “signo de cierre de exclamación” (i.e., closing exclamation mark!)!
And that’s only breakfast! Imagine what dinner is like! No wonder Yosemite’s High Sierra Camps have become so popular. As a result of the high demand for reservations, the National Park Service (NPS) has implemented a lottery system for those interested in experiencing this type of high elevation luxury. Lottery winners have an opportunity to visit all five High Sierra Camps via the 50-mile “loop” trail that passes by each camp in its own unique alpine setting.
However, for the past two years, Yosemite’s High Sierra Camps have gone silent. Concerns about the spread of the coronavirus have prompted the NPS and its concessionaire, Aramark, to cancel this highly desired lodging experience. Unfortunately, the same would be true for 2022. Early in the year, disappointed lottery participants found this announcement on Aramark’s Travel Yosemite website:
“Due to ongoing challenges from the pandemic, the National Park Service and Yosemite Hospitality have made the difficult decision to keep the High Sierra Camps closed for the 2022 season. As a result of the closure, guests with confirmed reservations will be notified of the cancelation via email and deposits will be refunded. The health and safety of Yosemite National Park visitors and employees is the park’s top priority and we thank you for your understanding.”
So, for the third year in a row, the many who yearn to enjoy this unique wilderness experience will need to wait another year, or two, or three, depending on the progression of the pandemic and the probability of actually being a lottery winner. Like any lottery, the chances of winning a reservation remain slim. More and more people have been seeking this experience, and the more people join the lottery, the less chance of being selected. The Yosemite Conservancy website indicates that “each year the backcountry welcomes thousands of hikers and backpackers, with numbers increasing as wilderness travel gains in popularity.”
In the meantime, the Camps will stay dormant for another summer. The buzz of activity they host during “normal” times stands in contrast to the ghost-town-like feel they now present. Each abandoned structure presents itself purposelessly. The concrete foundation squares will still mark out the rows of tent cabins, but only the unassembled steel frames lie asleep on top. The meal tent can be identified, but without its gentle 7:00 am gong sounding out to compel rested hikers out of their cozy cabins, there is no need to identify it.
Mothballed and inactive, the camps’ useless existence now seems to mar the alpine setting, like unwanted graffiti on a freshly painted wall. Without staff, servers, food, shelter, warmth, and a purpose, Yosemite’s High Sierra “Ghost” Camps appear to litter the backcountry. They stand in stark contrast to the hallowed wilderness motto to “leave no trace.”
Aramark added to their announcement that the next lottery will be in October 2022 for 2023 excursions. I’ll again submit my application to the lottery and look forward to playing a part in bringing these "ghost" camps back to life. With life, comes food, shelter, warmth, and a gentle gong that serves a welcoming purpose. With purpose, the High Sierra Camps become, not litter, but a pleasing adornment to Yosemite’s wilderness.
Commentaires