"People in motion . . . People in motion."
John Phillips, Songwriter (1967)
Yosemite embodies movement and motion. Water plunges from gargantuan granite walls with frothy glee, towering pines sway back and forth as the breeze glides over treetops, and squirrels and chipmunks animate the scene with darting sprints from here to there. Even deer bring a meadow to life with gallant leaps above the green grasses. Falcons dive earthward with keen focus on collecting a meal, a bear meanders across a trail following a familiar scent, a coyote launches itself towards a right-sized rodent, and a marmot runs for cover under a rocky crevice. Yosemite’s movement and motion contribute greatly to its dynamic energy.
Yet, such movement is not limited to its flora and fauna. People also find movement and motion as an integral part of the Yosemite experience. It’s true that vacations in the Park do allow for an unhurried wakeup call and savored lounging and mealtime moments, but, overall, most who come to the Park come to move about, to be in motion, and to interact as fully as possible with the Park in a wide range of activities.
With “viewing scenery” being the number one activity cited by 93% of visitors as a reason for visiting the Park, getting to and from all the possible scenic vistas can be challenging. Plus, according to a 2009 Yosemite summer survey, the average length of stay in the Park consisted of just over two days. Additionally, 14% of Yosemite’s guests spend only 3-4 hours in the Park! Most of that time is spent in Yosemite Valley where people move from one scenic view to another.
No wonder the most often asked question for those planning an abbreviated trip to Yosemite remains “What’s the Best Way to Spend One Day in Yosemite?” Even John Muir, in his book “The Yosemite”, tried his hand at answering the question by describing things to do for those with limited time. His list of activities included common sightseeing stops in Yosemite Valley such as watching the water falls, Mirror Lake and its reflection of Half Dome, Vernal Fall, Inspiration Point (i.e., Tunnel View), and “sauntering” in the meadows. Interestingly, he noted that “short carriage rides” could serve as an adequate means to get from place to place.
An internet search of the “What to Do?” question brings myriads of suggestions from “experts” offering differing opinions. The existence of so many possibilities can truly make planning somewhat overwhelming. Most everyone offering suggestions highlight the challenge by quoting the well-known Yosemite naturalist and Park Ranger, Carl Sharsmith. He reportedly responded to the question “What would you do if you only had one day in the Park?” by saying, “I'd sit by the Merced River and cry." Indeed, any limited stay in Yosemite can be a mournful plight, but adequate planning can turn sobs into smiles.
The key to making the most of a Park visit does not rest on the number of sights to be seen, photos to be snapped, or the drama to be felt by looking down 3,000 feet at the Valley below. The key consists of getting to know Yosemite’s essence rather than completing a checklist of things to see. Instead of acting upon Yosemite, you must put yourself in a position to allow Yosemite to act on you. The impression it leaves on you will be greater than what you leave on it.
The best way to do this remains one of the least suggested ideas on moving about in Yosemite Valley. Since no ‘carriage services’ exists to keep people in motion as in the days of old, that suggestion does not merit consideration. Some might suggest walking, but now that the shuttle busses have suspended operation (due to COVID-19 protocol), walking reduces motion to a “standstill,” so to speak, and does not optimize getting around the Valley floor.
That leaves us with bicycling, one of the most underrated activities for movement in Yosemite Valley. Remarkably, bicycling came in 14th out of 19 activities that Park visitors said they would engage in (during the summer survey). Plus, bicycling fits in so well with the Park’s 1980 General Management Plan (GMP). Reducing automobile congestion in the Valley has always been a major issue regarding Yosemite’s future and how best to reach the GMP’s goals of: (1) resource preservation and restoration,(2) visitor enjoyment, (3) transportation, and (4) employee housing. Yet, traffic congestion remains unbearable during peak visitation times during the summer months despite changes made (e.g., one-way roads and adding a roundabout near Yosemite Village). A warning of significant delays due to automobiles can still be seen on the Yosemite National Park website stating, “. . . If you are planning to visit Yosemite, plan ahead and arrive early. In summer, expect extended traffic delays and extremely limited parking. Expect delays of an hour or more at entrance stations and two to three hours in Yosemite Valley.” --Italics added
James Kaiser, author of the popular book, Yosemite: The Complete Guide, although agreeing that “Biking is one of the best ways to explore Yosemite Valley” (page 125), devotes only about three sentences to the idea. Additionally, the 2,800+ page document, Final Yosemite Valley Plan-Supplemental Environmental Impact Statement (November 2000), gives a nod to adding and improving “trails for walking and bicycling . . . throughout Yosemite Valley” and encouraging “bicycle and pedestrian touring,” but bicycling remains under-utilized and bicycle trails remain secondary to automobile and shuttle roads.
In Part 2 of this piece, I’ll highlight more completely how bicycling is one of the best ways to be in motion if you’re going to Yosemite Valley.
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